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Buddhist Monastery, Vadnagar

The recent excavations have brought to light a Buddhist Monastery belonging to the 2nd-7th century AD, within the fortified area of Vadnagar. The monastery had two votive stupas and an open central count yard around which initially nine cells were constructed. The arrangement of cells around the central courtyard creates a swastika-like pattern.
 

Buddhist Antiquities at Vadnagar

The recent excavations have brought to light a Buddhist Monastery belonging to the 2nd-7th century AD, within the fortified area of Vadnagar. The monastery had two votive stupas and an open central count yard around which initially nine cells were constructed. The arrangement of cells around the central courtyard creates a swastika-like pattern.


Taranga, Dist: Mehshana

Northeast of the main gate of the fort is a cave where the air is extraordinarily cool. The cave, locally known as Jogida ni Gufa, was found and used by Buddhist monks thousands of years ago. It has Buddhist sculptures carved in stone that resemble the Bodhi Vriksha or Kalpavruksha and other Buddhist motifs. You also come across some beautiful Buddhist sculptures on the mountain on the way to the cave.
Taranga Hills, 20 km from Vadnagar, on the Aravali range, harbours profound connections with Buddhism. The main idols enshrined in the Taranmata and Dharanmata temples are of Buddhist goddess Tara. Broken terracotta images of Buddha, four carved images of Dhyani Buddha on a stone plate, stone and brick walls inside rock shelters, etc. have been discovered from here.


Step Well
In a close proximity to the sun temple, located near the entrance is a small, unadorned  Step Well. This three storied structure built in the 10 century as a step over point for caravans was damaged in the earthquake of 2001 and is now a restricted area under renovation. There exists famous temple of Matangi Modheswari Mata, the original temple being in the ancient step-well.


Unjha
On the road to Sidhpur is a pilgrimage site for people of diverse communities. Umiya Mata the clan goddess of the Patidar community is said to reside here and attracts a fair number of visitors from India and abroad. Unjha is also the last resting place of ‘Mira Datar’, a muslim ‘Pir’ revered by a gamut of communities.


Becharaji
A short motor ride towards Chanasma and you come to the town of Becharaj and the temple of Bahuchar Mata, an incarnation of the Mother Goddess. Pilgrimages are undertaken to this site for vows fulfilled and boons granted. ‘Bahuchar Mata’ is the patron goddess of the women folk who invoke ‘her’ intervention in domestic violence and problems within the family. The goddess is also principle deity of transvestites and eunuchs who flock here large numbers to seek the blessings of the goddess.


MODHERA SUN TEMPLE

As one traverses the length and breadth of Gujarat, one constantly stumbles across architectural legacies of the' Solanki' rule. You keep coming across, living spaces and monuments of another time, offering an eclectic glimpse of the artistic and ingenious beauty that makes this exotically state vibrant.

A soothing drive amidst green farmlands just 35 km away from Mehsana on the way to the temples of goddess Bahucharaji reposes the village of Modhera. Set along the backdrop of River Pushpavati, surrounded by a terra-formed garden of flowering trees and songs of birds, rests the famed Sun temple of Modhera.

As you relax and soothe your nerves, become one with nature and open your mind to the poetry in stone, dedicated to the sun god, living glimpses of the era far elapsed emerge out of the intricacies of narrative sculptures . The remains of the Sun Temples at Modhera are relics of times gone by when reverence of the natural elements fire, air, earth, water and sky were at their peak sharing space with myriad manifestations of Vedic gods. The ancient philosophy venerating natural elements and its association with humans was considered the prime force and energy of the life cycle. A walk around the serene temple campus makes you aware of the positively strong aura of energy which the place radiates and through it brings one closer to the environs.

The exclusively carved temple complex and the magnificently sculpted kund are jewels in the art of masonry of the Solanki period apparently which was also known as the Golden Age of Gujarat. Savor your voyage through time to the magnificent eons of the Golden period as you get welcomed personally by the life like icons, narrating stories and legends of Modhera!

Things todo
Modhera is an ideal destination for being away from the hustle-bustle of city life for a day. The unruffled peaceful landscape and the majestically welcoming temple complex will ensure to take you away from the mundane routines of daily life to the glorious times back in the Golden Age.

    * As you enter the historical complex, you first come across the magnificent kund known as the Ramakund, built in rectangular shape containing 108 shrines to various gods and demi-gods. Check out the three main shrines positioned on the three sides of the kund, dedicated to Ganesh and Vishnu and an image of Lord Shiva dancing the ‘tandav’ facing the temple of the sun which covers the fourth side. Various shrines showcasing different mudras are arrayed along the staggered configuration of steps leading down to the base of the ‘Kund’.Try following the rhythmic ups and downs of the steps
    * Walk up the steps to the ‘Sabha Mandap’ or the assembly and convene with sculpted renderings of twelve ‘Adityas’ (another name for the sun god). The twelve representations carved on the pillars represent the sun according to the
      twelve months. It is believed that these ‘Adityas’ are the base myth to the temple of sun, the legend imparts Aditya’s to be sons of ‘Aditi’, the goddess of Infinity and the constant within the inter-connectedness of the universe.
    * If you love listening to stories, make sure you find the purohit or priest who has been taking care of the temple, and stays close to the vicinity. Request him to narrate or explain the tales and sequences from epics and legends which
      are carved on the 52 pillars adding grace and poise to the temple section. Even if you do not find him around, do go through the carved murals which serve as a virtual encyclopedia of history of communities, lessons in mortality, descriptions of fairs and festivals and rituals of the golden era. If time permits  may be you can examine each panel in turn and witness the intricate details encompassing the panels speaking and sharing about their costumes, jewelry, performing arts, erotica and the intensely enigmatic art of making love, medicinal plants, and the
      pharmacopoeia etched in stone.
    * After witnessing and traveling across time with the raconteur figurines, a visit to the Garbagruha will definitely feel as a spiritual experience. The statue of the sun god no longer exists and the Suryavanshi Solanki’s have been scattered into the dust of history since a thousand years but still on the day of the Equinox, one can almost hear the chanting of the prayers, the aroma of incense, the tinkling of bells as the sharp, linear rays of the sun illuminate the inner core of life and light.
    * Do enjoy sitting under those shady trees and feel the tranquility and bliss of being part of the magnificent temple complex of Modhera!

Background

Legendary Past

Although the districts of Patan and Mehsana are best remembered for the historical lineage of the Solanki dynasty, the area around Modhera traces its origins to antiquity. Puranic references refer to the place as ‘Modherak’ or ‘Moherak’ meaning mounds of the dead, and the locale has seen layers upon layers of settlements. Jain Manuscripts refer to the land as ‘Bhagvad Gram’. The Brahmapurana and the Skandapurana, alludes the legendary land of ‘Dharmavanyakshetra’ or land of righteousness to the area around Modhera.

Legend narrates that after vanquishing Ravanain battle, Lord Rama and Sita halted here on their way back. After due consultations with sage Vashishtha, Lord Rama decided to conduct a yagna here to cleanse himself of the sin of killing a Brahmin, namely Ravana who was a Shaivite and one of Shiva’s most glorious disciples. This yagna was performed by a local Brahmin belonging to the Modh community thus originated the name Modhera. There is even a temple of Modheshwari, a manifestation of the mother goddess near by.

Foundation of the Temple Complex
Rainbows of light cutting swathes of illumination on grandiose sandstone edifices of Modhera, marks the pinnacle of Solanki architecture. The temple complex was constructed as a magnificent offering in sculpture to the lord of life and light, fiery Surya, the sun god, under the patronage of Bhimdev I in the year 1027 AD. The king was a patron of the arts and an equal supporter of all religions.The Solanki kings of Anhilwad Patan enshrined their eminence in history through stone, most notably the Rani-ki-vav at Patan, the Jain temples at Taranga, Rudra Mahal at Sidhpur, and the sun temple at Modhera which incidentally is the only temple structure to have a ‘kund’ or ceremonial tank seamlessly dovetailing into the main complex thus emphasizing the dichotomy of the elements of fire and water.

The ‘Silavats’ were image or idol makers with an oral tradition of temple engineering. The temple complex is a marvel of planning engineering, mirroring their principles of ‘vaastu shastra’ and astronomy. Supervised by a mistry or elder, workmen chipped away at stone creating marvels of flora and fauna, creatures of fantasy, panels of narrative art depicting myth and legends and graphical impressions of geometrical shapes.

The temple is a classic example of the material aspect of Solanki architecture, namely a mastery over the elegantly intricate carving of stone and the judicious use of lime mortar. Ensconced in an undulating landscape of green foliage, the design element of the temple follows the tenets of Vastu - Shilpa. The kund and the entrance passageway face east in an aura of welcome to the tantalizing rays of the sun, and the entire structure floats on a plinth resembling a flowering lotus as an ablution to the sun god. The design specs of the steps are a stylized mirror image of the temple ‘shikhar’, thus symbolically linking fire and water, dream and reality. The main complex is divided into three parts, the entrance which is the ‘Sabha Mandap’, ‘Antaral’ the connecting passage and the ‘Garbagruha’, the sanctum sanctorum.

Decline
' With the waning of the Solanki dynasty and a decline in Sun worship, vagaries of time'Islamic iconoclasts and devastating' earthquakes have all chipped at this structures form. Mehmood Ghazni during his raid of Gujarat marched into the Solanki Empire creating mayhem and after a great deal of loot and plunder was finally attacked by a regrouped Solanki army under Bhimdev which through knowing the terrain well destroyed almost half of the Muslim army and Mehmood and his shattered remnants had to flee to Ghazni where his death occurred in Ad 1030.

Owing to this ignomous defeat Gujarate njoyed immunity from foreign invasion for a period of 160 years. This peace was disturbed by the arrival of Allauddin Khilji, who after occupying Delhi and the north looked towards Gujarat as an ocean link for trade. Master pieces of Solanki architecture including Modhera once again defaced and plundered. Not content with just looting the temple marauding soldiers under royal command placed gun powder in the Garbagruha and set fire to it creating an explosion that damaged and caused the main shikhara to collapse.

In spite of it all and a shikhara missing the Modhera sun temple is still a magnificent work of art in stone and if your Itinerary allows you only one town in this region, then by all means make it to Modhera.



Sidhpur

Sidhpur is a sacred town, around 103 kms. north of Ahmedabad. It is situated on the left bank of the River Saraswati, around 24 kms upstream of Anhilwad Patan, the old capital of Gujarat before Ahmedabad was founded in the first quarter of the fifteenth century.  The town is a revered destination, flanked by temples, kunds, ashrams and other sacred structures.  Around the 10th century, under the Solanki rulers, this town was at the pinnacle of prominence and glory. It derived its name from the great ruler of Gujarat, Siddhraj Jaisinh from the Solanki dynasty.

Raja Siddhraj built a magnificent temple dedicated to Lord Shiva called as the ‘Rudra Mahalaya’ in 12th century AD. The temple was an architectural wonder with a three-storeyed 'shikhara', 1600 pillars, 12 entrance doors, central 'mandapa' and porches on east, north and south and sanctum in west. Around the temple, there were 11 shrines of Rudra. The eastern gate was adorned with beautifully carved 'Toran', with a flight of steps leading to the Saraswati River.  The ornamentation of the temple was exuberant as shown by the elaborate and detailed carvings of the pillars and the beautiful Toran, which are the only remains of the temple today.

In Vedas, this modern day Sidhpur is mentioned as ‘Shristhal’ or a ‘pious place’. Of the five most holy and ancient lakes in India is the Bindu Sarovar, which lies here in Siddpur. According to the Hindu religion, it is said that as the obsequies offerings to the paternal ancestors must be made at Gaya, so corresponding offerings to the maternal ancestors have to be performed at Sidhpur. Thus Sidhpur has the importance of ‘Martu Gaya’ or ‘Matru Shraddh’, a place where people come annually to perform the rituals for their mothers who are in heavenly abode. These ceremonies are presided over by the Brahmins, who are treated with high regard. They are performed at Kapilamuni Ashram, where 3 sacred water kunds: the Gyan Vapika, Alpa Sarovar and Bindu Sarovar are present. It is also said that Lord Parshuram performed ‘Matru Shraddh’ at the Bindu Sarovar and his temple is also created here for darshan (worship).

Apart from that, there are only five Swayambhu Lord Shiva temples in India and all of them are in Sidhpur. They are the most important worship places during the Hindu month of Shravan.

Every year the Sidhpur Camel Festival which is a traditional fair is held here during the Kartik month (the first month of the Hindu calendar) from the 11th day to the 15th day which is known as Karthika Poornima (full moon) at the banks of the Sabarmati River. It is a livestock fair in which the locals and tribals from surrounding towns & villages participate. The camels and horses are decorated brilliantly by their owners to display, buy or sell them during the fair. The farmers bring in huge quantity of sugarcanes which is also sold along with various other local handicrafts items. The Kartikeya Temple opens for a week during this fair. All in all, the fair has all the color and vigor of a Gujarati mela.

The town also holds importance for the Bohra Muslims, an affluent Muslim community spread all over the world. They have contributed significantly to the development of Sidhpur. Their old Havelis and mansions, some over 100 years old have a markedly European flavor and a walk through the ‘Bohra Vad’ is like a stroll through an England replete with the lamp lighters at dusk. So enamored were they by the style & existence of living in the 19th century Europe that as a sign of opulence and to gain respectability amongst the community they tried to create a slice of Europe in their hometown. This, they did by imitating the Victorian architecture. The facades are rich in variety and aesthetic expression with intricate details in wood. Thus the living spaces of the Bohra community or the so-called ‘Bohra Havelis’ represent a nostalgic visual straight out of a Dickenson novel.

 

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