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Uparkot
 

The oldest part of Junagadh, and the center of any visit to the city, is the upper citadel, known as Uparkot. Over 2300 years old, with walls up to 20 m high in some places, Uparkot is what allowed Junagadh to withstand a 12-year siege at one point. It is believed that these caves belong to 1st-4th Century AD and are gilded with beautiful pillars and entrances, water cisterns, horseshoe shaped chatiya windows, an assembly hall and cell for meditation. There is also a 300 ft.-deep moat inside the walls, that reportedly used to be inhabited by crocodiles, so that if any attacker managed to surmount the high fortifications, they would then either be exposed on the upper battlements or fall into the crocodile-infested trench.

Just inside the entrance are the insignia of some of Uparkot’s former rulers and temples to Ganesh, Hanuman and Shakti. Closeby are two medieval cannons named Neelam and Manek, forged in Cairo and brought by the Turks who sailed to Saurashtra to aid in defending Diu against the Portuguese.

Entry to Uparkot is Rs.2/- (Rs.10/- for a vehicle); it is open from 7am-7pm every day. The following places (Jami Masjid, Adi-Kadi Vav, Buddhist caves and Navghan Kuvo are all within Uparkot.)





Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid was originally the palace of Ranakdevi, but was converted to a mosque by Sultan Muhammad Begda when he conquered the princes of Saurashtra. Perhaps for that reason, it is easily mistaken for a fort. It also has a covered courtyard, which is very unusual in Indian mosques.




Adi-Kadi Vav & Navghan Kuwo
 

These two stepwells inside Uparkot, are highly unusual forms of stepwells, very different from wells in other parts of Gujarat. Most wells are dug through various kinds of subsoils and rock layers, and stone columns, floors, stairs and walls are built much like they would be in above-ground construction. In the case of these two, the spaces of the well itself were carved out of stone, leaving the structure of the well (the columns, the walls, etc.) out of the original rock. This means no structural construction is done, so the whole structure of the well is hewn out of a single stone.

Navghan Kuwo, just a few years shy of being a thousand years old (it was apparently built in 1026 AD, though some accounts say it is much older), is partly hewn out of soft rock and partly built up structurally like other wells. The stairs that lead down 52 m (170 ft.) to the water level spiral around the well shaft itself, which is also very uncommon. The water from Navghan Kuwo is what allowed Uparkot to withstand many long sieges.

Adi-kadi Vav, built in the 15th century, is carved entirely out of hard rock. A narrow flight of 120 stairs cuts down through the stone to meet the well shaft deep in the stone. Two different legends claim to explain the name of the well. One says that the king ordered a stepwell to be built and workers excavated down into this hard stone, but no water was found. The royal priest said that water would only be found if two unmarried girls were sacrificed. Adi and Kadi were the unlucky ones chosen for this and after their sacrifice, water was found. The other story, less fantastic but probably more likely, claims that Adi and Kadi were the names of the royal servant girls who fetched water from the well every day. Either way, people still hang cloth and bangles on a tree nearby in their memory.




Buddhist Caves
 

The so-called “Buddhist Caves” around Uparkot are not actually caves, but three separate sites of rooms carved out of stone to be used as monks’ quarters, hence the name. They are all a little over 2000 years old, give or take a couple of centuries.

The oldest, the Khapara Kodia caves caves belong to 3rd-4th century AD and are plainest of all cave groups. These caves are along the edge of the ancient Sudarshan Lake (which no longer exists) and the northern side of Uparkot. The chambers are separated into an east-west longitudinal crest. The rectangle western wing and the ‘L’ shaped wing used by the Monks as a monsoon shelter, are the important parts of the caves. They were carved into living rock during the reign of Emperor Ashoka and are considered the earliest monastic settlement in the area. After many years of use, they were abandoned because cracks above them allowed water to seep into living quarters, rendering them unusable. Many accounts say that after this, the monks left for Maharashtra, where they went on to carve many similar and more elaborate structures. Khapara Kodia was damaged by later quarrying, and now only the highest story remains.

Across Uparkot from Khapara Kodia are the caves of Baba Pyara. Baba Pyara caves are lying close to the Modhimath, which has four caves in its northern group. The next set of south group caves has a unified plan with a spacious court and a chaitya hall. The art tradition of Satavahanas period has influence over these cave pillars and door jambs of the caves. It is believed that they belong to 1st – 2nd century AD. These have 13 rooms in three stories, cut into the rock 45 m. (150 ft.) high and adorned with carvings of Buddhist symbology. These are much more intact than the Khapara Kodia caves. The last (and most recent, being only 1900 years old) caves are next to the Adi-Kadi Vav.




Ashok Edicts: Dist: Junagadh City:Uparkot

Ashoka’s Rock Edicts belong to 250 BC where around 14 edicts of Ashoka are located on the route to the Mount Girnar Hills. This rock edict is a huge stone and the carving in Brahmi script in Pali language mention the resistance to greed and animal sacrifice and also moralize the principles of purity of thought, secularism in thinking, kindness and gratitude. The other major part of Junagadh’s Buddhist heritage are the stone edicts of Emperor Ashoka, found on the road towards Mt. Girnar. When Ashoka famously converted to Buddhism and renounced violence, on his way to being one of India’s most revered and respected rulers of all time, he had edicts carved in stone and placed in sites all across India (ranging as far as Kandahar in present-day Afghanistan in the West, modern Bangladesh in the East, Andhra Pradesh in the south) with precepts for living a virtuous life, respecting others and creating a just society. Speaking in moral and ethical terms, not religious ones (though the Buddha is mentioned), the edicts reach out across faith traditions. Tellingly, in Junagadh one edict that is visible (though you won’t understand it unless you read Pali) reads: “To foster one’s own sect, depreciating the others out of affection for one’s own, to exalt its merit, is to do the worst harm to one’s own sect.” This is wise counsel calling to us from 2300 years ago. The site of the edicts is open every day from 8am-6pm. Entry is Rs.5/- for Indians & Rs.100/- for Foreigners.




Around the Old City
A walk around the old city of Junagadh will take you to many places worth visiting. The tombs of the Babi Nawabs, including the first Nawab of Junagadh, who made the princely state independent from the Mughals in 1748, have interesting designs, and though somewhat poorly maintained, are still worth seeing. Far more spectacular, however, are the Maqbaras from later in the Babi period, built over the grave of Nawab Mahabat Khan II. The awe-inspiring architecture mixes Moorish, Hindu and European influences with an exquisite eye for detail. The Maqbaras are not to be missed.

The Junagadh Museum, open from 9am-12pm and 3pm-6pm every day except Wednesday, houses prehistoric stone and bone implements, 9th-century stone carvings and many bronzes, manuscripts, silverwork, glass crafts, woodcarvings, textiles and other items from the history of the area.

Next door is the Sakkarbaug Zoo, open from 9am-6:30pm (closed on Wednesday, like the museum), which is known for its conservation and captive breeding program for the Asiatic Lion, found in the wild in nearby Gir National Park. Entry to the zoo is Rs.10/- for Indians, Rs.50/- for Foreigners.

The Darbar Hall Museum, open from 9am-12 noon and 3pm-6pm (closed Wednesday and the 2nd and 4th Saturdays of the month), exhibits the era of the Babis of Junagadh, with lavish furniture, thrones, textiles, arms, portraits and photographs from the period.

Entry: Rs. 2/- for Indians and Rs. 50/- for foreigners. The Museum charges Rs. 2/- per photograph (if you wish to take photographs). Mobiles are to be switched off during your visit.




Mt. Girnar

 The highest point in Gujarat, Mt. Girnar has for centuries been one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the state and indeed in all of Western India, with 866 Hindu and Jain temples spread over the 5 summits. The base of the mountain, known as Girnar Taleti, is just 4 km east of the center of Junagadh. A hike up the mountain is best started early in the morning, with the mind of a pilgrim. Each step upward should itself encompass the entirety of the journey, rather than be seen as another effort towards one’s goal of reaching the top

The steps begin at Domdar Kund, near the Damodar and Baldvji temples. The 15th-century poet Narsinh Mehta used to bathe here, and supposedly composed most of his morning hymns, the prabhatiya, here. As you ascend the stone path that connects the temples along the 5 summits, you will pass temples of many different sects of Hinduism. The Bhavnath temple, early on, is dedicated to Shiva, where the “naked sadhus” come to celebrate Shivaratri. After 4000 steps up, 800 steps before the first summit, you reach a plateau with a Jain temple complex. Among these temples, which date from the 12th to 16th centuries, is the site where Neminath, the 22nd tirthankar of Jainism, died after 700 years of ascetic meditation. 2000 steps further on, the temple of Amba Mata (the Mother Goddess) is visited by Hindus, Jains, and newlyweds seeking blessings for a happy marriage. These last 2000 steps are intimidating but well worth the trip for the spectacular panoramic views from the summit. Then the stone trail continues, 1000 steps down and 1000 steps back up, to reach the other summits. The last of which houses a temple to Kalika, where the Aghora ascetics smear themselves with funeral ashes

Though people will offer to carry you up the stairs (for a hefty price), the real experience of Girnar is to be found in walking. Pilgrimage is not about arriving, but about traveling. Start early in the morning, carry plenty of water, and stop for rest often during the hot hours of the day, and your climb of Mt. Girnar will be fruitful.


Junagadh Caves, Dist: Junagadh

Khapra Kodia Cave, Junagadh On the basis of scribbles and short cursive letters on the wall, Khapra Kodia caves are datable to 3rd-4th century AD. This is the plainest of all cave groups. The chambers are cut into an east-west longitudinal ridge. The important components of the caves are the oblong western wing and the 'L' shaped wing used by Monks as a monsoon shelter.
 

Baba Pyara Caves, Junagadh

The Group of caves lying close to the Modhimath is known as Baba Pyara. The northern group of it has four caves. The next set of caves lies little to the south of the eastern end of the first group and has a unified plan with a spacious court and a chaitya hall, apsidal in shape. The cave pillars and door jambs of the caves suggest a clear impact of art traditions of Satavahanas period and are datable to 1st-2nd century AD on the basis of architecture.




Pania Wildlife Sanctuary
Precipitous, undulating landscape carpeted with wild grass and vegetation in-houses the Pania Wildlife Sanctuary. The ecological refuge also known by the name of Chanchai-Pania has been home to varied species of endangered and rare animals and was declared a Sanctuary in 1989. The 39.63 square kilometers sanctuary is an extended stretch of the Gir Sanctuary and the majestic lions and leopards frequently roam around this area. The Pania Wildlife refuge is differentiated from Gir to emphasize preservation of the Chinkaras and antelopes who wander around freely in the grassy region.
 
Patches of grassy land amidst the hilly arid areas render the area suitably for the elegant and graceful Chinkara or Indian Gazelle. Small animals like Hyena, wild cat, civet cat, antelopes bearing four horns, pangolins, and foxes are seen almost playing hide and seek with the varied species of grasses while majestic animals like mighty lions stomping around the bumpy terrain in their full glory might offer a pleasurable surprise.

The crude exuberance of nature basking the glory of the Pania Sanctuary can be best experienced during the period in between monsoon and winters. A haven for eco-tourists this center will provide you with ample treasures and diversity of nature. Drive around the small zone while coming across petite animals shying away from you or apprehend the magical aura of the royal king of jungle lazing around in the rustic wilderness.

Being a responsible nature lover is our way of showing reverence to Mother Earth, a few tips for you to remember-

    * No smoking whatsoever (cigarette butts cause many forest fires.)
    * No flash or intrusive photography (for example, don’t pluck leaves to clear a better view; reposition the camera instead.)
    * Do not carry any music system or sound making device along with you and remember to keep them switched off if you are driving around.
    * Picking plants or insects prohibited; do not remove anything from the park.
    * No quick or sudden movements to scare off wildlife.
    * Do not try going to close to the animals.
    * No pets should accompany you.
    * No littering. Trash is only to be disposed of in proper receptacles.
    * No hunting devices or other weapons should be carried, as well as used.
    * Carry lots of water.  



Mitiyala Wildlife Sanctuary
Mitiyala grasslands known for the rustic, untamed essence of undulating hill tracks engulfed with tall grasses, semi-dry deciduous trees, is almost like an offshoot of Gir Lion Sanctuary. Mitiyala Wildlife Sanctuary occupying an area of 18.22 square kilometers got the confirmed status in the year 2004. The jungle pre-independence was part of the royal estate of Bhavnagar and Asiatic Lions in their most Majestic aura were preserved along with other wildlife native to this region.

As one wanders around the terrain the regal Asiatic Lions basking in the glory of nature greets and a further way down herds of spotted deer gallop around trying to move further away from the King of Jungle. The Lions often meander down to the Gir forests as the Mitiyala sanctuary is at a stones throw and share a common boundary with the woodlands. The area between the Mitiyala and Gir Sanctuary serves as a passage connecting the two habitats for the wildlife residing in these areas.

The rugged ridges with the grasses and scrubs in Mitliyala are a safe haven for two prides of lions and a solitary lion which is almost 11-12 lions. Other animals sharing the space with the royal king are leopards that diffidently rest around blending with the nature. Spotted deer in herds with their graceful movements gallop around the terrain and the Bluebulls or nilgai are often seen grazing around to their hearts content. Wild boars in groups which are known as sounders move around the area, eating anything from plants to little reptiles.

Driving around the sanctuary, the winters is best time to experience the place and spend a day away from the daily routine. This small sanctuary with its diverse natural variety on offer is an ideal place to unwind and learn from environment and enjoy the experience of nature’s creation. A day in the haven looking around the inhabitants can be quite an exciting endeavor, but just remember the King of Jungle does continue his life at his own fancy. He may or may not be present in or around the site when you are there. Keep ample amount of time in hand and wait for the jungle king while enjoy the varied species of birds and other animals in the vicinity.

Being a responsible nature lover is our way of showing reverence to Mother Earth, a few tips for you to remember-

    * No smoking whatsoever (cigarette butts cause many forest fires.)
    * No flash or intrusive photography (for example, don’t pluck leaves to clear a better view; reposition the camera instead.)
    * Do not carry any music system or sound making device along with you and remember to keep them switched off if you are driving around.
    * Picking plants or insects prohibited; do not remove anything from the park.
    * No quick or sudden movements to scare off wildlife.
    * Do not try going to close to the animals.
    * No pets should accompany you.
    * No littering. Trash is only to be disposed of in proper receptacles.
    * No hunting devices or other weapons should be carried, as well as used.


 

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Information not available

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